Verdict: Gnawa Photo Expedition

Photo © Tewfic El-Sawy -All Rights Reserved

Now ensconced in sunny and hot London, I've reflected on the past 2 weeks spent photographing in Morocco during the Gnawa Festival Photo Expedition, and two key words immediately jump to mind: frustrating and sublime.

Here's the frustrating bit: people photography in the large cities of Morocco is to say the least, extremely difficult. Moroccans are generally reticent to pose under any circumstances, and photographing them on the sly (say in a marketplace) can lead to some unpleasant confrontations. I recall that we were photographing fishermen off-loading their catch in the post of Essaouira, and hearing one of them, clearly irritated by our presence, asking his colleagues if we thought them to be monkeys in a zoo. Other Morrocans would agree to pose provided they were paid, then adopted the dreaded "frozen look". Some noticed our cameras, and immediately covered their faces whether we pointed our cameras in their direction or not. Street photography needed ingenuity and a self-starting approach, since photographing in a group didn't work.

I exerted much efforts to engage people and show respect, but despite my fluency in Arabic (somewhat different for the local idiom), I wasn't terribly successful in persuading them to be photographed. However, I did manage to establish moments of genuine kinship, such as with the owner of Africa Music in Essaouira who spoke at length about Gnawa music, but it did not translate into being open to photography. It will be included however in my planned multimedia piece on the Gnawa.

The other frustrating issue is that in impoverished Morocco, and because its high unemployment rate amongst its youth, there's a sense that tourists ought to pay for every little service, whether needed or not. I found this to be particularly true in Marrakech and Ouazazate, but less so in Essaouira. For instance, the self-appointed guides at the Ait Benhaddou Kasbah in Ouarzazate are spectacularly venal, and some even threatening. It's a shame since the site is UNESCO-listed, and ought to be supervised instead of being left to a bunch of hooligans.

Before I turn to the sublime aspect of the photo-expedition, here are a few other random thoughts. In the grand scheme of things, Ouarzazate was a dud from a photographic standpoint. Unless one is willing to photograph the Kasbahs (there are two of them), nothing else attracted my attention. I'd give Marrakech a passing mark for photography because of its Jemaa el-Fna square, and that's about it. Again, all this is said based on my sort of travel documentary photography, and is certainly not applicable to other disciplines. The infrastructural component of the expedition went well. Hotels were generally fine, but the Riad Mimouna in Essaouira stands out a certainly being a jewel. Our bus was expertly and safely driven by the jovial Abdel Hakeem, and was extremely comfortable. However, the drive from Marrakech to Ouarzazate was uncomfortable for those who suffered from motion sickness because of the road's switchbacks.

As for the guides: I didn't find them particularly good nor flexible enough to earn the description of "fixers", with the exception of Hassan E'Chater in Essaouira, who displayed occasional flashes of ingenuity. Guides are badly paid in Morocco, so have to rely for income on herding tourists to stores and restaurants.

The sublime aspect of the photo expedition was found in Essaouira, so in the unlikely event that I repeat this trip, it would only take place during the 4-5 days of the Gnawa Festival, and not more. Although it's still difficult to photograph people in this little town, the medina itself is remarkably photogenic, and since its streets are normally crowded, candid photography is frequently easy. Personally, I found the event to be initially somewhat ill-organized but it got better as the days progressed. Our hotel, Riad Mimouna, was a few steps away from the small Zaouia Sidi Bilal where many of the nightly Gnawa performances were held. Most of my documentary photography and audio recording of the Gnawa was done there. The Zaouia family of caretakers included Rokeyah and her two young nieces Khadija and Ibtisam who, despite their being less than 8 years old, attended the performances well into the wee hours of the night. Khadija greeted some of us with hugs; a display of affection indicative of the Moroccans' hospitality.

The Gnawa performances at the zaouia were breathtaking. I managed to thwart the administrators efforts, and photographed almost as much as I wanted. Rather bizarrely, photography was allowed at some performances, and prohibited at others. Since the area is quite small, a fast wide angle lens is recommended. Since the Gnawa music is extremely percussive (the qerqabs are really noisy!), I've experienced some distortion in my recordings which perhaps I can fix using either Garageband or Audacity. Another great aural experience was the Berber women singers at the La Recontre restaurant near the zaouia.

One of the highlights of the trip was photographing the Gnawa procession which, in effect, inaugurates the festival. It started at Bab Doukala, and winded its way to one of the main arteries leading to Bab Marrakech. The various Gnawa bands performed for the public, and competed with one another to achieve the highest decibel level. One of the bands included a female Gnawa, who is quite famous in their circles.

Gnawa music has a new fan. I bought a few CDs of a couple of Maalems, such as Mahmoud Guinea and Hamid El-Kessari. And fans of grilled sardines will find Essaouira to be the place for them.

Finally, the above photograph was made during a Gnawa performance, when a young local woman suddenly stood and dances to its rhythms. Within a few moments, she had gone into a deep trance by violently throwing her head about. I had seen women going into trances here before, but they were much older and were larger.

Other non-photo sublime moments:

Witnessing an elderly fisherman choose a plump fish from his catch, cutting it to manageable bits and feeding two ravenous scrawny cats. Noticing they seemed thirsty, he found a discarded plastic bottle, cut its bottom to use as a plate and poured water for them.

Sensing the tremendous energy in the audience of young people when Babani Kone of Mali made her entrance on stage, and when Cheb Khaled, the king of Rai, sang his hits on the Essaouira beach.

Returning to my hotel at 3 am from the Essaouira beach after the Rai concert and realizing that, despite the late hour, there was as many people walking about as there would be during the day.

Black or White

One of the Saturday afternoon, I went for a hair cut and found this interesting moment in the Indian Barber shop....

A white in the Indian Barber shop for hair cut! Beside this, I wondering....he was hairless?!
The "Black or White" from Micheal Jackson famous song suddenly came into my mind! Don't you feel it?

Yeah....that's remind me the King of Pop - Micheal Jackson. R.I.P.





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Travel to Lebanon

Travel Tour to Lebanon

Tourism culture and History travel tour in Lebanon

Once considered the Paris of the East, Lebanon has disappeared from the tourist map at the start of the civil war in 1975. At present, and gradually, is consolidating the view that not only is feasible to travel to Lebanon, but also can be done without major complications. Lebanon has many attractions within its modest borders: ancient cities, relics of the Roman Empire, luxurious ski resorts, great places and samples of Islamic architecture. Also has a complex culture, and this is their social and religious diversity, as the supporters of other nations' cultural homogeneity, it is impossible to avoid social instability. Unfortunately, in this case, Lebanon has given the reason.

The few foreigners who come to these lands today are in accordance with the profile of the wealthy tourists who hired a package tour. Although not many independent travelers, are welcome. The Lebanese are known for their genuine hospitality, and we invite strangers to their homes. For those interested in the history of this region and to witness how this country tries to overcome the crisis, it becomes the most appropriate time to visit.

best time to Lebanon travel

For lovers of sun, summer, between June and mid September, is the ideal season to visit Lebanon. During this period, the weather tends to stay warm and dry, with the exception of the coastal plain, where there is moisture. Surprisingly, Lebanon is becoming an increasingly popular destination for lovers of winter sports (comes with several ski resorts). The season to play the sport runs from December to May. During the past month, the weather on the coast has reached sufficient levels of warmth for a dip, and the fields have already blossomed. Hopefully, we can take this season for skiing, sunbathing on the beach and to enjoy fresh flowers in the hotel room. Autumn also offers beautiful scenery in October and has referred the summer and hot flush is a good time to visit the nation

Lebanon Holidays and festival

Most national holidays are religious, and with the variety of religious groups that coexist within the same borders, if there is any occasion to celebrate. The main Islamic holidays follow the lunar calendar of the Hegira, which has eleven days less than the West, so the holidays are ahead eleven days annually. Among the most important events include the Ras as-Sana (New Year's Day), the Achour, Public Mourning Day which are Muslims and Shiites commemorating the assassination of the grandson of Muhammad, and Radames, a month in which believers fast from dawn to dusk. The celebration ends with the great feast Eid al-Fitr. The day of the patron saint of the Maronites, Mar Maroun, is celebrated on February 9, and the Christian celebrations of Holy Week takes place twice: the first, according to the Gregorian calendar and the second, according to the schedule of eastern Christian churches. Among the secular holidays include Independence Day (November 22) and the Day of Qana (April 18), which recalls the massacre that occurred at Qana in 1996, where 107 Lebanese civilians were killed after the Israeli bombing of a camp of the UN. A more cheerful note is in the hands of the internationally famous Baalbek Festival of the Arts in July

places and attraction to travel in Lebanon

Beirut

Formerly known as the Paris of the East, Beirut was a strong punishment for the 16 years of war in Lebanon. The city has not yet recovered, nor of the bombings, or the massive influx of refugees, therefore, many newcomers are shocked at the destruction, reconstruction, crowding and chaos exist. Located in the heart of the Mediterranean shores of Lebanon, Beirut reflects all kinds of contrasts: of buildings together with exquisite architecture grotesque mass of cement houses and gardens of fragrant jasmine survive, dwarfed in the shadow of modern buildings and old born winding alleys of broad avenues and modern ostentatious cars compete with trucks on the street vendors. Although not much remains to be seen, they are still vibrant and unique charm.

In the district of Hamra, in the northwest of the city, are banks, hotels, cafeterias and post office, this area lends itself to view windows and soak the atmosphere of the city. North of Hamra, the American University of Beirut has a museum of archeology, although not as spectacular as the National Museum, reopened in 1999 after a period of reconstruction. His collection of Phoenician statuettes is particularly interesting. In East Beirut, a splendid villa of the nineteenth century, Italian style, is home to elegant Sursock Museum, which offers exhibitions of Turkish silverware, icons and contemporary art in Lebanon and that also has a small but attractive library.

A visit to the Beirut Central District (known as Downtown) allow the traveler to get a rough idea of what these people suffered during the war. Portions of this area is being restored, others have been demolished with bulldozers or converted into an apocalyptic landscape of bullets erupted. Martyrs Square, the center of the district was almost entirely demolished (only touching the standing statue of the Martyrs), a huge poster showing the project to be carried out in this place. Omari mosque, also known as the Grand Mosque, is one of the few historic buildings are preserved: Originally built as a church of the Crusaders in the Byzantine period, was converted into a mosque in 1291.

The cave of the Doves is the most famous natural attraction in the capital. These arches of rock emerging from the sea becomes a supplement to the beautiful cliffs of the coast of Beirut, and the inhabitants of the city that usually meet in the enclave to admire the sunset and stay away from noisy traffic. It is also delightful stroll along the Corniche, the path that runs along the coast, and breathe the sea air, have a coffee served at the back of a van or try any food exposed in the carts of street vendors.
Byblos

On the coast, some 40 km north of Beirut, is the ancient Byblos, one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world. In fact, its origins date back to Neolithic times, about seven thousand years. During the third millennium BC, this city became the most important commercial port in the area, starting point of sending in cedar oil to Egypt. Until the tenth century BC, Byblos was the major center of Phoenician culture, and there developed a phonetic alphabet, the precursor of the modern world of alphabets. Successively invaded by Persians, Alexander the Great, Romans, Byzantines and Arabs, Byblos finally fell into oblivion after being taken, and subsequently abandoned by the Crusaders.

Before the civil war, Byblos was an obligatory stop for the jet set, and both the port and its picturesque historic Old Town remains in good condition. To reach the ruins, south of the old city, must pass through the remains of a Crusader castle, which overlooks the medieval walls of the city. From this point you can see the remains of huts dating from the fifth millennium BC, the temple Baalat Gebal, 2800 BC, an L-shaped temple built around 2700 BC, two royal tombs and a temple at the beginning of the second millennium BC in addition to a Roman amphitheater.

Another attraction is to discover the Wax Museum, which retraces the history of the country through a series of scenes somewhat strange and sometimes even grim. Close to the cultural institution, is the church of San Juan, built by the Crusaders. In addition, Byblos has a souq (market) very lively and has an attractive beach with some underwater ruins. While only has a couple of hotels, eating establishments abound.
Tripoli

Located 86 km north of Beirut, Tripoli stands as the second city in number of inhabitants in Lebanon, in addition to being the main port and commercial center in the north. While more modern than the rest of Lebanese people, their appeal lies in its medieval history and architecture Mameluk. The city survived the civil war in better shape than most cities in the nation, and still retains the charm Arabic, with its narrow alleys, its souqs, a gentle pace of life and friendly people. Tripoli is famous also for being the sweet capital of Lebanon, and a trip to this town detract incomplete without a visit to one of their shops sticky sweet and succulent.

The city has two major areas: Al-Mina (port), which enters the sea and the city itself. In the center is Sahet et-Tall, a great place where travelers will find the bus station, restaurants and accommodation. The ancient city extends eastward, forming a maze of narrow alleys, bustling souqs, hammams or Turkish baths, khans, mosques and madrasas (theological schools). In this bustling enclave, artisans working in the same way as from the fourteenth century. This location also has beautiful architecture Mameluk, including the mosque Taynal of the fourteenth century, the Madrasa Qartawiyya intricate and mihrab (niche) of the mosque and madrassa Burtasiya.

Originally built by the Crusaders in 1103, the Citadel of Saint Gilles-dominated Tripoli. Severely damaged by fire in the thirteenth century, was partially rebuilt in the XIV and has since been amended several times, but retains its original splendor. In al-Mina, it is worth visiting the Tower of Leon, which is preserved only example of a group of structures built by the Mamluks to defend the city.
Tire

The former Tire, located on the southern coast of Lebanon was founded by the Phoenicians in the third millennium BC In its origins, Tire was a village on land and a town on an island in the ninth century BC, under the mandate of Hiram, the island was connected to the mainland by a narrow road. In the fourth century, when the troops arrived Alexandrian, cut the old road and built a sort of pier or breakwater. As the spring had larger than the old road, the island became a peninsula. At the time of the Phoenicians, was famous for its Tire industries purple dye manufacturing and glass objects, at present, is known for its Roman ruins.

The old town is located on the peninsula, the modern is located inland. To the south, rise the relics of the Roman Tire. Among the Roman ruins are well preserved for a road that crosses a monumental arch. In one of its sides is bordered by an aqueduct, and both sides are erected hundreds of sarcophagi adorned with marble and stone inscriptions complex. The racecourse was built in the second century AD, is the largest and best preserved of the planet, and his remains were celebrating a festival each summer. As Shooting is only 20 km north of the border with Israel, it is possible that in situations of conflict, the surrounding area will attract the attention of Israeli artillery. It is advisable to avoid the area if tensions are emerging, but at other times not considered dangerous to visit

Bcharré

Bcharré and the route to Los Cedros, about 30 km inland from Tripoli, is experiencing some of the most beautiful landscapes of Lebanon. The road follows the foothills of the mountains and on steep climbs meandering and spectacular gorges. Populations of houses with roofs of red tiles appear on the hill or hanging precariously on the slopes, and each curve is a glimmer panorama of olive groves, vineyards, lush valleys and mountain peaks.

In Bcharré is Gibran Museum. Renowned writer and artist Khalil Gibran was born in this township, and was buried in a former monastery that overlooks the town. The museum houses a large collection of oil paintings, gouaches and drawings by Gibran, in addition to many of his manuscripts. You can also visit his grave in the former chapel of the monastery, in the same room were placed a chair, a table, and other objects belonging to it.

Bcharré north of the road continues its ascent up what is known as Arz Ar-rab (the Cedars of God), the latest biblical cedar forest that survives in Lebanese territory. This is a small grove in the past cedars grew throughout the land, but this appeal was abused. Some of these trees date back fifteen hundred years, and the place was declared a National Monument. Bcharré below, in the spectacular gorge Qadis lie the graves of the first Maronite Patriarch, as well as some monasteries carved into the stone. This narrow passage between the mountains is a paradise for those who engage in hiking, and can travel up and down.
Baalbek

Baalbek, 86 km northeast of Beirut, was named in honor of the Phoenician god Baal. The Greeks renamed Heliopolis, and later the Romans used it as a center of worship of Jupiter. Baalbek then appeared as the most important city of Roman Syria. In more recent times, set based Hezbollah, Islamic fundamentalists who oppose the West, and it was in 1999 when the population has reopened its doors to tourism. While the modern city is very small, its Roman remains make up probably the richest archaeological zone of Lebanon.

The temple complex of Baalbek is one of the largest in the world. It measures about 300 m long and has two porches with temples, two courtyards and a hall built during the Arab period. The temple of Jupiter, completed around the year 60 AD, the culmination of a high platform to be located on an impressive staircase, only six of its huge columns (22 m) was still standing, which is enough to get an idea of the scale of original building. In the surroundings, the temple of Bacchus, built around the year 150 AD, is in a good state of preservation. Away from the main area is the exquisite little temple of Venus, a beautiful circular building with striated columns.
Zahle

About 40 km from Beirut, to the interior is Zahle, a peaceful and attractive holiday with the steep riverbank Birdawni. In the upper part of the population along the river, is located dozens of outdoor restaurants to visit during summer, both its residents and visitors who came from Beirut who wish to enjoy one of the best kitchens in Lebanon. Zahl appears as the best place to savor the arak, a kind of cognac flavored with aniseed, which is produced with the remnants of fermented wine. Alcohol is a pure and transparent, that drunk quickly, but, fortunately, does not produce a hangover. After a few drinks, it seems even drinkable.
Beiteddine

About 50 km southeast of Beirut, is Beiteddine (House of Faith), whose name refers both to the people and the magnificent palace, perched on a hill 850 m high, seems to emerge from a fairy tale , an exquisite fancy of Italian elegance Scherezade interpreted (the architects, in fact, were Italian). In 1788 construction was begun, not completed until thirty years later, during that period, the emir Bashir, Ottoman governor, was responsible for overseeing the building of a monument that would reflect the power and the glory of his kingdom.

Beiteddine visitors appreciate the vein of self-worshiping the Ottomans, as a legacy of the best examples of the existing nineteenth-century Lebanese architecture. Even the Israeli invasion destroyed this building, although it is felt that they lost 90% of the unique and valuable objects it contained. His greatness is reflected in its three main gardens, the huge domed stables, small museums, guest rooms, fountains, the portico of marble marquetry, the richly decorated hammams (Turkish baths) dotted around the complex and its collection of Byzantine mosaics. Many of the pottery belonged to the ancient city of Porfirión, from which they were removed for safekeeping in the palace during the war. This collection is considered one of the most spectacular in the Eastern Mediterranean, and even the planet.

During July and August, is celebrated in the town where a festival is an eclectic mix of musicians, singers, dancers and actors in Arab and international

Lebanon activities

The mountains and gorges of Lebanon offers fantastic opportunities for hiking. Since, in general, distances are relatively short, the traveler will not find what you want to encounter any problems with a population where an overnight stay. In Lebanon, there are six major ski resorts, with slopes of different difficulty levels. In providing all the rental equipment at a reasonable price.
In short the Lebanese coast sandy beaches, usually those who want to go swimming to water from the rocks or platforms built in the docks. The beaches are more prized in the South, south of Tire also be accepted that are in the vicinity of Byblos and Chekka, near Tripoli. The areas for soaking the rocks tend to be among the most suitable for scuba diving with a pipe, are also very popular water skiing, windsurfing and sailing.

History of Lebanon

The abundance of natural resources and favorable promontories to port facilities on the coast, along with the possibilities offered by its defensive Highlands, have attracted the Lebanon-biblical land of milk and honey-countless conquerors. In fact, the history of this nation includes a number of opportunistic thieves and charlatans.

The first inhabitants arrived at the Lebanese coast by the year 10,000 BC, some seven thousand years later, their village had been transformed into prototype cities. Around 2500 BC, the coast had been colonized by Phoenician settlers, who later became one of the first great civilizations of the Mediterranean. The Phoenicians never unified politically: its prosperity was based on the outcome of their commercial skill and intellectual effort that stemmed from various city-states. Besides mastering the seas thanks to their skill as navigators, and the superiority of their craft, the Phoenicians were exceptional craftsmen and created the first alphabet.

In the ninth century BC, the Assyrians appeared, ending the monopoly of the Phoenician Mediterranean trade. Subsequently took over the Babylonians, who in turn were conquered by the Persians (viewed as liberators by the Phoenicians). The decline of the Phoenician people were consummated in the fourth century BC after the invasion of the Middle East by Alexander the Great, then began a Hellenization Fenicia spontaneously. In the year 64 BC, Pompey the Great conquered the territory that become part of the Roman province of Syria. Under the mandate of Herod the Great, Beirut became an important focus, and spectacular temples were built at Baalbek.

As the Roman Empire disintegrated, and Christianity is rooted, in the fourth century AD, Lebanon was under the Byzantine domination, with its capital in Constantinople (now Istanbul). The imposition of orthodox Christian belief was not well accepted, so the arrival of the Muslims to preach the word of Allah did not meet with resistance in Lebanon.

The Umayyads, the first great Muslim dynasty, ruled Lebanon for about a century, despite the opposition of Jews and Lebanese Christians, especially the Syrian Maronite sect who took refuge in the vicinity of Mount Lebanon. In the year 750, the Umayyads were defeated by the Abbasid, and Lebanon became a forgotten corner of the Abbasid Empire of Persian influence. His government remained until the eleventh century, when he was overthrown by the Fatimid dynasty which, in turn, hardly remained in power until the lifting of the Crusaders. While his goal is focused on Jerusalem, the Crusaders moved to Syria and the Lebanese coast, where he came into contact with the Maronites before attacking the Holy City.

Muslims Ayubi dynasty controlled the territories of Syria, Egypt, western Arabia and several parts of Yemen until the end of the thirteenth century, was overthrown by the Mamluks, a group of mercenary slaves who ruled Lebanon for about three years. Disappeared with the emergence of the Ottoman Empire, tribal leaders and the emirs Tanukhid-Lebanese (Druze) of central Lebanon and the Maronites, formed alliances with various local factions opposing.

The Ottoman Sultan Selim I conquered Lebanon in 1516-1517, but the Ottoman power was temporarily undermined by the Emir of the Druze Fajr al-Din II (1586-1635). In addition to ambitious al-Din was very shrewd and politically astute, which allowed him to unify for the first time in history, the area which is now known as Lebanon. After the execution of the emir by those who had supported, came to power to his nephew Ahmad Maan, although it was not so clever, the Ottoman Empire was rewarded for his work with an emirate. At death, the government passed into the hands of the Shihab family, who reigned until 1840, when the fighting ended the era of the emirs.

In 1842, the Ottomans divided the area of Mount Lebanon into two administrative regions: one Maronite and one Druze. The dispute occurred between two groups at once, this conflict had already been planned and promoted by the Ottomans, who implemented a policy of divide and rule. In 1845 had been declared a war between Maronites and Druze, and between peasants and their feudal lords. Pressure from Europe, the Ottomans united the Lebanese government under the command of an Ottoman Christian governor and as a result, the feudal system was abolished. Followed by a period of stability and economic prosperity, ending with the outbreak of World War I, when, under the Turkish military, Lebanon suffered a ferocious hunger. In 1922, after the victory of the Allies, the League of Nations to France confirmed the exercise of its mandate on Lebanese territory.

In 1944 became effective independence of Lebanon, becoming an important center of commerce. But there was one major problem: the power remained in the hands of the conservative Christian population, and Muslims (almost half the population) were excluded from the government. This situation should be added the large number of displaced Palestinians to the land. In 1975, it was civil war among Palestinians, coupled with the Lebanese left and the phalanges, which were supported by various Christian organizations. Throughout the sixteen years that followed, complex civil and international conflicts, with some reaching high-profile kidnappings, became routine.

This complex period was summarized in the following areas: responding to a request from the president of Lebanon, Syria intervened in 1976 to force an uneasy peace between Muslims and Christians, to support Phalangist and its allies in March 1978 the Israeli army invaded the southern Lebanese territory and established a militia to protect northern Israel from the Organization for the Liberation of Palestine (PLO), the security council of the UN demanded the withdrawal of Israeli forces and created an interim United Nations Lebanon (UNIFIL) to quell the internal strife between Christians and Muslims. In 1982, Israel besieged Beirut with the stated purpose of eradicating the PLO, and it supported the Christian militias in the killing of Palestinian civilians. Following an agreement between American, Lebanese and Israeli, U.S. forces evacuated the Syrian-Palestinian, and deployed a multinational force for Taxation, composed of Americans, French, British and Italians. Following an agreement libanoisraelí (May 1983) that established the conditions for withdrawal of the Israelis, clashes between Druze, backed by Syria, and phalanges, and between units of the Lebanese Army and Druze and Shiite militias. The MNF suffered heavy casualties and withdrew in early 1984.

Gradually, the Syrians achieved a hegemonic position in the Muslim areas of Lebanon, until in 1988 the new government tried to expel Lebanese military. The attempt failed and fighting continued until the arrival of Elias Hrawi (November 1989), moderate Maronite Christian in good relations with Syria. In 1992, the foreign hostages were released, and Syrian troops began their withdrawal. In August 1992, for the first time in twenty years, parliamentary elections were called, and the pro-Iranian fundamentalist Muslim party Hezbollah obtained the largest number of seats. Rafiq al-Hariri became prime minister.

The clashes between Shiite militia Hezbollah and Israeli soldiers continued until 1993, culminating in Operation Grapes of Wrath, which was the Israeli bombing of eighty people of southern Lebanon. The conflict erupted again in 1996 when Israel launched new air strikes on southern Lebanon and Beirut. International public opinion condemned the Israeli action and the UN swiftly negotiated a cease-fire. These protracted armed conflicts have claimed some 150,000 lives have been ruined Lebanese and the country. At present, the infrastructure of Lebanon is recovering at a good pace as the economy makes it more slowly. His big problem is to continue at the mercy of circumstances and situations in the Middle East beyond their control. In recent decades, many forces in conflict in the area (both the PLO and Syrian, Iranian, Israeli and UN) have used the territory of Lebanon as a battlefield for their own causes.

In 1999, the newly elected Israeli prime minister, Ehud Barak, pledged his country's withdrawal from the security zone in southern Lebanon, where Israeli troops and Hizbollah militia remained conflicting. Barak kept his speech in May 2000, despite the concerns of the Israeli occupation by Syria of the Golan Heights. When the Israeli Army began evacuating the area, Hezbollah was introduced quickly, forcing the Israeli soldiers in a chaotic withdrawal under fire, while the Lebanese civilians throwing stones and bottles. Once the smoke had dissipated, Hezbollah engineers worked to restore electricity and water, without which the Lebanese civilians had lived for much of the occupation. Although it is hoped that the tensions between Lebanon and Israel will be cool, it's likely to remain unstable at the border for some time

Lebanon culture and people

Lebanon offers a variety of art, both traditional and contemporary. The Dabke a vigorous folk dance is the national dance. The classical belly dancing, which represents the passage of a virginal girlfriend sensual woman, still plays a prominent role at the wedding, and is also common in nightclubs. Arabic folk music is based on discordant melodies and complex rhythms, often accompanied by an intricate overlapping edges. Among the instruments used are the oud, stringed instrument shaped pear, table, clay percussion instrument, wood or metal and leather, the nay, a kind of bagpipe with a single open tube that produces an exquisite sound and great softness and the Qanun, a trapezoidal plane with a minimum of 81 strings.

Prose and poetry have always enjoyed a prominent place in Lebanese culture. A widespread form of poetry is the zajal, witty dialogue in which a group of poets improvise verses incorporating them into songs. Lebanese literary figure is the most famous nineteenth century poet Khalil Gibran, who explored the Christian mysticism in his work. Among contemporary writers emphasize Amin Maalouf, Emily Nasrallah, and Hanan Al-Shaykh.

Approximately 60% of Lebanon's population professes Islam, and the remaining 40% practice Christianity. Chiismo variant is the most faithful Muslim, followed by sunnismo and Druze. The latter appear as one of the most interesting religious phenomena of the Middle East. While its origin is rooted in Islam, his orthodoxy differs from that form of this religion, which often is considered an independent doctrine. The Druze believe in reincarnation of God in different men from different eras, the last of them was al-Hakim, the sixth Fatimid Caliph of Egypt, who died in 1021 AD Besides accepting reincarnation also believe in the existence of a predetermined number of souls. Members of this religion is to meet Thursday evening in discreet places to pray, do not allow assistance to those outside the sect. The Christian community with the largest number of adherents is the Maronite Church, followed by the Greek Orthodox, Greek Catholic, Syrian Catholic, the Chaldean, Protestant and Orthodox.

Despite having two official languages, Arabic and French, is the first predominant, and English is used more in the financial and business district. The Arabs attached great importance to good manners is usually preceded witness any exchange of a long greeting, questions about the health of others and a host of attentions. Although its status Ajnabi (foreigner) is not expected that the traveler knows what is good or entry frowned upon, it will show respect for those who try to use the correct term at the right time. In fact, any effort made by the traveler to communicate in Arabic with the Lebanese will be appreciated. Even if your pronunciation is appalling, it is safest to respond: "How well do you speak Arabic."

Lebanese cuisine is a pleasure in very easy reach. With fresh ingredients and tasty, with fine spices, the Lebanese have adapted the best of Arabic and Turkish cuisine seasoned with a touch of French. A typical meal includes some Mezze or incoming, as Empanadilla spinach, sauce, cheese, pizza and stuffed grape leaves. Remains a main dish of meat (usually lamb) or fish, often stuffed with rice, nuts, accompanied by a salad or tabouleh style fattoush. The national dish, kibbeh, consists of a mixture of minced lamb and bulgur wheat, and can be eaten raw, baked or fried. The finishing touch is provided by a portion of Melosa baklava and other desserts made from flour and nuts.

Arabic coffee is a drink very much appreciated by the people. Among the highlights jellab refreshments, a delicious drink prepared with raisins and served with pine nuts, and ayran, a yogurt drink. Alcoholic beverages are inexpensive and easy to get. The most popular, arak, is mixed with water and ice ...

Lebanon Map

Ah Soon Bak Kut Teh*, Johor Bahru

Ah Soon Bak Kut Teh (N1°29.323' E103°46.049') located at Jalan Keris 1 of Taman Sri Tebrau, Johor Bahru.

The restaurant has a poor environment, it makes you feel like having your Bak Kut Teh in the oven. But....it's crowded everyday especially lunch time!

Crowded and hot environment.

I visited this shop on one of the Saturday noon time and it's pack with peoples! The Bak Kut teh serve here is the Teow Chew Claypot style.

We ordered :-
1) Bak Kut Teh for 3 person
2) Yellow Rice Wine Claypot Chicken (small) (Signature dish)
3) Salty vege & tou-fu

Teow Chew Claypot Bak Kut Teh

Yellow Rice Wine Claypot Chicken

Tou-Fu

This is the place where I started to love Teow Chew Bak Kut Teh many years ago.....and the Yellow Rice Wine Chicken is one of the Best I ever taste within Johor Bahru. So far none of others come close to it!

The taste of the Bak Kut Teh maintain the same from my last visit (many years ago). I will recommend most of my friends who love Bak Kut Teh to try it at least once! The cooking method still use the traditional way which is 'Charcoal'.

Traditional Charcoal cooking

The damages was :- MYR48.00 for 4 adults & 1 child (include drinks)

Rated : 4.5/5 for the Bak Kut Teh, 4.9/5 for the Yellow Rice Wine Chicken.
Business hour : Morning till 3pm (Close on Monday)

Another GOOD Bak Kut Teh worth to try!


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Bak Kut Teh at Johor Bahru :-
* How Yu Bak Kut Teh, Permas Jaya, Johor
* Soon Huat Bak Kut Teh, Tmn Daya, Johor Bahru
* Shi-Hua Bak Kut Teh, Permas Jaya, Johor Bahru*
* Soon Lee Bak Kut Teh, Taman Johor Jaya, Johor Bahru

* Soong Huat Bak Kut Teh, Taman Desa Tebrau - Johor Bahru
* Ah Soon Bak Kut Teh, Johor Bahru*


Bak Kut Teh at Muar :-
* Leng Kee Bak Kut Teh, Muar, Johor

Bak Kut Teh at Kulai :-
* Sze Hwa Bak Kut Teh, Kulai, Johor*


Bak Kut Teh at Pekan Nanas :-
* Tong Heng Bak Kut Teh at Pekan Nanas, Johor.





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Java Jamboree: Javanese Delights

I remember having a rather sumptuous Javanese dinner on the last night in Surabaya. We had returned from the Agro Park and it seemed like in no time at all that we landed on this spacious posh Javanese Restaurant. Walking into its big hall, we were confronted with tables and chairs where patrons could sit and enjoy their food while enjoying a performance on the stage. Traditional handicrafts like masks and wayang kulit puppets spruced up the place and there was a crowd of smiling young men and women dressed in traditional Javanese costumes to wait on the guests. Very soon, we were ushered into a room of our own. There were antiques like old gramophone etc. and on the table was a spread of Javanese food. Of course, there was tempeh or tempe, this popular Javanese food made by fermenting soybeans. My friends were visibly delighted with the dinner...

At a Javanese Restaurant...











Traveling Tip: Try something local!

Take Five! Seafood

Java Jamboree is taking a break!

In Malaysia, seafood restaurants could be found all over the country especially in coastal towns where seafood almost always come fresh and cheap. In Kuala Sepetang, once known as PortWeld, for example, there are seafood restaurants run by Chinese which serves other than fish and prawns, crabs, cuttlefish, shellfish etc. etc. Often when my friends and I meet up, we would frequent the restaurants and yes, it is a delight to just sit, eat and talk!



For more stories on Kuala Sepetang, visit Beautiful World!

Essaouira Report: Zaouia Sidi Bilal

Photo © Tewfic El-Sawy -All Rights Reserved

Within a few steps from my lovely Essaouira hotel (Riad Mimouna) is the zaouia of Sidi Bilal, who was the first muezzin in Islam, and is the patron saint of the Gnawa order.

It is there that most of my photographs of the Gnawa performers are made. The backdrop of the zaouia is of traditional islamic zellige, and is just perfect. I've witnessed three Gnawa performance at the zaouia so far. The first was of the Gnawa Maalem Allal Soudani, the second was of the Tunisian Sidi Ali Lasmar Stambali, and the third of the magnificent Ganga de Zagora. The first two performances were of the Gnawa Maalems on the traditional guembri (a three stringed instrument), while the rest of the group provide the repetitive percussive accompaniment with the also traditional qarqab, which are the hand-held cymbals. The end of each session was particularly interesting as local women would join in the furious hand-clapping, add a special stone to the incense burner and eventually go into a trance.

The third Gnawa performance was of the Ganga de Zagora, which did not involve other than the qarqabs and drums known locally as t'abl.

The final performance tonight will be of the famous Maalem Ahmed Baalil, which will start at midnight and will probably end at 3 am.

While it's a tad premature, but I must say that the report card for the Gnawa Festival Photo Expedition is mixed. The reluctance and refusal of many Moroccans to be photographed is a considerable obstacle for people photography, and the harshness of the sun/light also makes it very challenging. Street photography in the medinas is possible, however the light conditions are not ideal. On the other hand, photographing the Gnawas has been a cinch (with one minor exception), and they are extremely photogenic and attractive. The music is remarkable, and its rhythm is impossible to resist. I'm girding myself for a longthy editing process once I'm back in New York to create a Gnawa multimedia slideshow, accompanied by ambient sound recorded during the performances.

Kuang Fei Beef Noodle at Tangkak, Johor

Kuang Fei Beef Noodle at Tangkak, Johor. (N2°15.931' E102°32.402')

This restaurant is located at Jalan Solok which is close to the first traffic light (if you drive from the NSE toll) of the Tangkak town.
The business hour is morning until 3pm.

I love this Beef noodle since the day one I eat beef!

Honestly, I miss the timing many times when I came here....mostly is too late! So this time I came in the morning for not to miss it again. The standard size of the Beef Noodle is MYR5.00 each, but you can have the small or the big which are MYR4.00 or MYR6.00 each.

The Tangkak Kuang Fei Beef Noodle.


The comparisons within this and the Beef Noodle (which is also from Tangkak) at Taman Maju Jaya - Johor Bahru are :-
* The beef is more tender than the JB stall
* The soup is not as thick as the JB stall.
* Last, quantity the beef they provide is much more than the JB stall.

I love it very much and I rated the Best Beef Noodle I ever have!

It's serve by young guys, I believe this are the new generations of their grand parents.

The environment of the shop. Honestly, it's quite clean.

The damage was MYR24.00 (Include drinks) for 4 bowl of beef noodles.

This happened to every bowl after 15 minutes...

The shop lots opposite Kuang Fei Restaurant.

Rated : 4.9/5


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Essaouira Report: Gnawa Festival

Photo © Tewfic El-Sawy -All Rights Reserved

The 2009 Gnawa (or Gnaoua) Festival in Essaouira officially started yesterday at 6:00 pm, when all the participating groups congregated at the medina's Bab El-Doukala for its inaugural procession through its narrow streets.

The various Gnawa bands were amply represented in the square just outside the Doukala Gate, and were being interviewed by the local press. Gnawa music is a mixture of sub-Saharan African, Berber, and Arabic religious songs and rhythms, and they displayed their talents while walking in the medina's streets. The procession was viewed by a large number of spectators, both local and tourists, although I noticed that some of the Essaouirites were irritated at having to wait until the processions passed through to go along their business.

I thought the best vantage point for photography was under the arches of Bab El-Doukala, where there were no spectators on the either sides to intrude in my shots. With one exception, I was the only photographer there and was left alone by the police who were shooing people away from the center of the alley.

Later on at midnight, we attended a "lila" in a nearby zaouia, a Maghrebi Islamic religious monastery, where the Maalem Al-Soudani and his group was performing for a small audience. The opportunities for photography were somewhat restricted by the administrators who initially claimed that it would interfere with the sanctity of the performance, then changed their tune to admit it was because they didn't want unofficial photographers to "commercialize" the events (ie only photographers approved by the Festival organizers were allowed to photograph).

I wish the organizers could have been candid and up front with the real reason, rather than using a religious or spiritual excuse, and confusing spectators.

Essaouira Report: Gnawa Musicians

Photo © Tewfic El-Sawy -All Rights Reserved

Photo © Tewfic El-Sawy -All Rights Reserved

I've just been able to photograph and audio record a couple of rehearsals of musical bands and dancers in the medina of Essaouira through the persistent assistant of our fixer, Hassan. Normally, attending and photographing these rehearsals require special permits and press passes.

The first rehearsal was at a riad (small typical hotel) in the center of the medina, where I photographed the amazing Brazilian dance trio Afoxe Loni, along with the legendary Gnawa Maalem Mahmood Guinea.

The second rehearsal was at an arts center, also in the medina, where I photographed the incredibly talented Maalem Abdel Rehim Ben Thami, accompanied by the Trio Amrat, Hussein and Foulani.

What I saw augurs well for the quality of the talent which will be seen by the public at the Gnawa Festival tomorrow night.

My Work: The Tanners of Marrakech

Photo © Tewfic El-Sawy -All Rights Reserved

As readers of this blog know, I'm leading a photo expedition in Morocco whose principal destination is Essaouira where we will be photographing the Gnawa Music Festival in a few days' time. The 9 photographers on this expedition are now in Ouarzazate, an ancient city south east of Marrakech and described as the gateway to Africa, and where we are photographing the various casbahs dating from the 11th century. I suspect that it's hardly the remote area it's hyped as, since the hotel here has an incredibly fast (and free) WiFi in its rooms.

We stayed in Marrakech for a couple of days, and the above photograph is of Mejid, a worker laboring in its famed medieval tanneries. The stench of the tanneries here puts off many visitors, but it hardly matters to workers like Mejid and his colleagues who toil for long hours in difficult work conditions. Visitors are handed mint leaves to place in their nostrils to filter the odor, but I declined and found that one gets used to it after a few moments.

Morocco, as expected, is a difficult country to photograph because of two main reasons: the harshness of its sun, and the general unwillingness of its people to be photographed. However, we are soldiering on and making the most of the experience.

Tomorrow, we make our way to Essaouira (a 7 hours drive) on the Atlantic coast and to attend the festival which lasts until month-end.

Hua Bee Biscuit Shop at Tangkak, Johor

This shop is situated at Jalan Solok, another few shops after the famous Kuang Fei Beef noodle of Tangkak. (N2°15.957' E102°32.378'). They also selling many types of local cookies & biscuits.

Hua Bee Biscuit Shop

We were just happen to be here drop by to see anything interesting. One thing attract me was the Green Bean Paste Pastry (a.k.a. Tambun Biscuit at Penang). I never try it before especially at Tangkak. So we just bought 2 boxes (One big & one small), it cost MYR5.50 for small box and MYR10.00 for big box.

Tangkak Green Bean Paste Pastry

The biscuit below....we used to call it 'Cow ear biscuit' in Hokkien.

Each pack is selling at MYR3.50. Quite cheap and reasonable.

Variety of local biscuits and it's really make me recall those happy moment of my childhood! How about you? :)

After hanging around for 30 minutes, bought what we want....I noticed this hawker which is just 2 two shops away from the Hua Bee. It's only has 4 tables for customers and it's FULL! I wonder what so nice about it?! Then I realized he was selling the Laksa, and seems like every customers also tasted it. So I decided to try it, but because of no place for me....I just 'Ta-pau' (pack away). Anyway, the taste was average....nothing to shout about it.

Laksa Hawker at Tangkak

I believe it's just the hawker been selling his laksa noodle many decades ago, and most of the locals have grow together with it. Therefore, they already so get used with the taste of the noodle.....
It's happen to all of us, I am definitely LOVE the foods from my hometown. Because I taste it since young untill now....
So, what is yours favorite childhood food?





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National Geographic: Angkor Wat

Photo © National Geographic

The National Geographic online is featuring a 3D innovative look at the Khmer Empire, which includes Angkor Wat and life as it must have been in the 13th century.

In fact, this animation will provide a sliver of solace to those who heeded the National Geographic's advice of not going to visit the complex. A few months ago, the National Geographic's Intelligent Travel advised people not to go to Siem Reap and to the Angkor complex, and to postpone their visits. It seems the sheer volume of tourists has taken a toll on the Angkor monuments and temples, and that several of the important temples are being restored. Some have unsightly scaffolding with areas just cordoned off. The central section of Angkor Wat is closed to visitors until 2010 at the earliest.


Robot posted as I'm in Morocco

Blind Boys Magazine


Blind Boys Magazine describes itself as being bold, new and South Asian. I'm unsure whether these photographers form a collective, or are just a group of photographers who seek an avenue to expose their diverse work to the outside world.

Aditya Kapoor's photographs reveal the lighter side of the often misunderstood Muslim community, Kapil Das' photo essay covers one of the last surviving traveling theater groups of Gujarat, while Akshay Mahajan explores the lives and uncertainties of a old couple in New Delhi’s new urban scape. Ishan Tankha photographs in a camp in Sri Lanka where 94 former child soldiers live with their supervisors, Surya Sen's photographs show us the aftermath of the Bhopal Gas Tragedy, and finally Ruhani Kaur finds Sophie Ashraf, a 21-year-old Muslim girl who raps.

posted "robotically" as I'm in Marrakech

Candace Feit: West African Wrestling

Photo © Candace Feit -All Rights Reserved

Tyson and 50 Cent are the names of the biggest stars in West African wrestling, which according to photojournalist Candace Feit, has become a huge business for wrestlers and sponsors alike. Instead of wrestling to win a bag of rice or a goat, the current monetary prizes are now in excess of $300,000. For many young men in Senegal, it can drag them out of a crippling poverty.

Candace has been featured on many occasions on the pages of The Travel Photographer blog, and her photographs of West Africa appeared in the The New York Times, Le Monde, Le Figaro, The Chicago Tribune, The Washington Post, and Time magazine, among others. She was based in Dakar, Senegal and now is living in Delhi, India, from where she will most certainly equally produce wonderful photo reportages such as this one and the others which are found on her website.

Other posts on Candace can be found here.

posted "robotically" as I'm in Marrakech

My Gear For The Gnawa Photo~Expedition

Having received questions as to what I normally pack on my photo~expeditions, I thought thought I'd list what I loaded my Domke F-3X Canvas bag with for my Gnawa Photo~Expedition which starts in a few days. In a departure from my usual packing style, I decided this time that I'd go minimalist (sort of) in terms of camera gear, and leave my Canon Mark II (and all its heavy paraphernalia) at home.

The contents of my bag:

* Canon EOS 5D Mark II
* Canon G10 (ideal for unobtrusive street photography)
* Canon 17-40mm f4.0
* Canon 28-70mm f 2.8
* Canon 24mm f1.4
* Marantz PMD 620 Audio Recorder
* Acer Aspire One 8.9-inch Mini Laptop (w/LR2 and SoundSlides)
* A 250gb G-Tech Mini G-Drive External Hard Drive
* Blackberry & an iTouch

and in a separate (but connected to the Domke), a Lowepro lens case with a Canon 70-200mm f 2.8.

I don't intend to carry all this while photographing in the field, as I'll just choose what lens I need (I normally use 1 or at most 2 lenses while working), but I'll report back on what worked and what didn't. Chargers and other stuff will be packed in a see-thru zippered bag in my checked luggage.

posted "robotically" in between London and Casablanca

Think Tank Wired Collection


Think Tank has announced that it will begin shipping a line of bags aimed at editorial photographers whose work includes capturing audio along with still photos, plus photographers who are acquiring the new breed of digital SLRs capable of capturing high-quality video.

The line of bags is called the Multimedia Wired Up Collection consists of 4 belt-mountable pouches and two beltpacks.

I never used Think Tank products, but I am impressed that it's bringing a line of products specifically aimed at multimedia photographers, which means the company keeps its ear to the ground (as it ought to) and reacts to our needs. I'm sure its competitors are also readying new products. I always thought that the Think Tank products were too "boxy", but these new ones are soft-sided and very attractive.

It's always a clever idea to promote a product showing a real life working photographer using the products, and the Think Tank promotional video is one of those, plus it's partially shown in black & white! Can't be more professional than that!

My thanks to Larry Larsen who suggested the link.

For further product pictures and details, visit Rob Galbraith website.

posted from London en route to Morocco

Tyler Hicks: The Battle For Pakistan

Photo © Tyler Hicks/NYTimes-All Rights Reserved

A superb photojournalism feature published by The New York Times of photographs by Tyler Hicks appeared on its website late last night.

The title of the multimedia feature is The Battle For Pakistan; a title which I find rather exaggerated, as it really is about South Waziristan. Having said that, the area which may well be the toughest challenge for the Pakistani military in its war against an insurgency.

South Waziristan is home to Baitullah Mehsud, who -according to the accompanying article, leads the Taliban in the area and has engineered many suicide bombings in recent years.

The article by Sabrina Tavernise (and Ismail Khan) ends with an ominous quote by a top bureaucrat for the tribal areas, who says: “Militancy is like a monster. Even if only the tail is left, it will grow again from there.”

Sedim River Recreation Forest of Kedah

Sedim River Recreation Forest of Kedah (N5°24.803' E100°46.856') is located at the East of Butterworth.

If you are driving from Butterworth, take B.K.E. to the east....you will pass by Kubang Semang Plaza Toll. After the toll, drive for 16.6KM to reach the junction of Lebuhraya Perdana (Highway), continue for another 4.2KM then turn left into K115 & towards a small town call Sungai Kob, approximately 17.5KM to reach the junction to turn into Sedim River Recreation Forest (K166). The last 12.2KM driving to lead you to the Sedim River. (Total of 50.5KM from Kubang Semang Toll)

Sedim River (Sungai) of Kedah - Photo from asiaexplorers.com

Freddy Tay and his friend are attracted by the Tree Top Walk of Sedim River and they drive directly from Cameron Highlands (after 2 night stayed).

The Tree Top Walk of Sg.Sedim was officially launched on March 5, 2009 by KDYMM Sultan Kedah.

This is the popular destination for the adventures, white-water enthusiasts and nature lovers. The river is claim to be one of the best white-water destination in Malaysia. The area has the Malaysia longest canopy walk (of reinforced steel) that spans 950 meter above the lush green rainforest trees and Sedim River.


Please prepare a comfort shoes, drinking water & some light foods. Because along the Tree Top Walk, there's no stall along the track.
You will be enjoying the Fauna & Flora along the walk also enjoy the white-water stream below your foot.
Freddy and his friend did not finish the whole tracks (950 meter). They turned back to the stream to enjoy the cold water and the nature surrounding.


The white-water rafting only in the morning and charges are : 2 hours for MYR150.00 & 5 hours for MYR300.00. Guide will be provided.

I accidently found some info about the track was damage by the trees during the "Forest Explorers" visit. But I have no idea whether they maintain it well today...
Below are the 2 pictures taken by them...

Damage walk - By forestexplorers.com

Damage walk - By forestexplorers.com

According to Freddy (my friend), the place is well maintain and clean. Hopefully we can enjoy the nature environment forever!





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